Evaluation of Skin Elasticising Topical Formulations by a Torsiometric Test

Evaluation of Skin Elasticising Topical Formulations by a Torsiometric Test 4 Marzo 2014

Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications, 2014

Adele Sparavigna1, Francesco Scarci2, Federico Mailland2
1Derming, Clinical Research and Bioengineering Institute, Monza, Italy
2Scientific Department, Polichem S.A., Lugano, Switzerland

Background/Purpose: In the frame of a development of a formulation to be used in perineal massage in pregnant women, a screening program was built up among compositions with elasticising properties.

Methods: This was an open-label, controlled study in 21 volunteers. The participants applied once, on the volar surface of both forearms, five formulations with elasticising properties (test products 1 to 5) and a reference standard (test product 6). The formulations were applied on
three sites on each forearm that were randomly assigned. Skin elasticising parameters were evaluated using the Dermal Torque Meter, at baseline and 30 minutes after application.

Among the test products, only test product 2 significantly increased skin elasticity compared with the baseline value, with a trend toward superiority versus the reference standard (+24% vs. +13%, respectively). There was a significant increase in elastic recovery of 23% with test product 2, compared with a significant increase of 13% with the reference standard.

Conclusion: Test product 2, comprising a thiolated compound and a mixture of esters of fatty acids, had the greatest elasticising effect. Compared with the other tested formulations, product 2 led to a greater increase in extensibility and faster elastic recovery of the skin on the volar surface of the forearm.